The Lake

: WILD ENGLAND

There now only remains the geography of our country to be treated of

before the history is commenced. Now the most striking difference

between the country as we know it and as it was known to the ancients is

the existence of the great Lake in the centre of the island. From the

Red Rocks (by the Severn) hither, the most direct route a galley can

follow is considered to be about 200 miles in length, and it is a

journey w
ich often takes a week even for a vessel well manned, because

the course, as it turns round the islands, faces so many points of the

compass, and therefore the oarsmen are sure to have to labour in the

teeth of the wind, no matter which way it blows.



Many parts are still unexplored, and scarce anything known of their

extent, even by repute. Until Felix Aquila's time, the greater portion,

indeed, had not even a name. Each community was well acquainted with the

bay before its own city, and with the route to the next, but beyond that

they were ignorant, and had no desire to learn. Yet the Lake cannot

really be so long and broad as it seems, for the country could not

contain it. The length is increased, almost trebled, by the islands and

shoals, which will not permit of navigation in a straight line. For the

most part, too, they follow the southern shore of the mainland, which is

protected by a fringe of islets and banks from the storms which sweep

over the open waters.



Thus rowing along round the gulfs and promontories, their voyage is

thrice prolonged, but rendered nearly safe from the waves, which rise

with incredible celerity before the gales. The slow ships of commerce,

indeed, are often days in traversing the distance between one port and

another, for they wait for the wind to blow abaft, and being heavy,

deeply laden, built broad and flat-bottomed for shallows, and bluff at

the bows, they drift like logs of timber. In canoes the hunters, indeed,

sometimes pass swiftly from one place to another, venturing farther out

to sea than the ships. They could pass yet more quickly were it not for

the inquisition of the authorities at every city and port, who not only

levy dues and fees for the treasury of the prince, and for their own

rapacious desires, but demand whence the vessel comes, to whom she

belongs, and whither she is bound, so that no ship can travel rapidly

unless so armed as to shake off these inquisitors.



The canoes, therefore, travel at night and in calm weather many miles

away from the shore, and thus escape, or slip by daylight among the

reedy shallows, sheltered by the flags and willows from view. The ships

of commerce haul up to the shore towards evening, and the crews,

disembarking, light their fires and cook their food. There are, however,

one or two gaps, as it were, in their usual course which they cannot

pass in this leisurely manner; where the shore is exposed and rocky, or

too shallow, and where they must reluctantly put forth, and sail from

one horn of the land to the other.



The Lake is also divided into two unequal portions by the straits of

White Horse, where vessels are often weather-bound, and cannot make way

against the wind, which sets a current through the narrow channel. There

is no tide; the sweet waters do not ebb and flow; but while I thus

discourse, I have forgotten to state how they came to fill the middle of

the country. Now, the philosopher Silvester, and those who seek after

marvels, say that the passage of the dark body through space caused an

immense volume of fresh water to fall in the shape of rain, and also

that the growth of the forests distilled rain from the clouds. Let us

leave these speculations to dreamers, and recount what is known to be.



For there is no tradition among the common people, who are extremely

tenacious of such things, of any great rainfall, nor is there any

mention of floods in the ancient manuscripts, nor is there any larger

fall of rain now than was formerly the case. But the Lake itself tells

us how it was formed, or as nearly as we shall ever know, and these

facts were established by the expeditions lately sent out.



At the eastern extremity the Lake narrows, and finally is lost in the

vast marshes which cover the site of the ancient London. Through these,

no doubt, in the days of the old world there flowed the river Thames. By

changes of the sea level and the sand that was brought up there must

have grown great banks, which obstructed the stream. I have formerly

mentioned the vast quantities of timber, the wreckage of towns and

bridges which was carried down by the various rivers, and by none more

so than by the Thames. These added to the accumulation, which increased

the faster because the foundations of the ancient bridges held it like

piles driven in for the purpose. And before this the river had become

partially choked from the cloacae of the ancient city which poured into

it through enormous subterranean aqueducts and drains.



After a time all these shallows and banks became well matted together by

the growth of weeds, of willows, and flags, while the tide, ebbing lower

at each drawing back, left still more mud and sand. Now it is believed

that when this had gone on for a time, the waters of the river, unable

to find a channel, began to overflow up into the deserted streets, and

especially to fill the underground passages and drains, of which the

number and extent was beyond all the power of words to describe. These,

by the force of the water, were burst up, and the houses fell in.



For this marvellous city, of which such legends are related, was after

all only of brick, and when the ivy grew over and trees and shrubs

sprang up, and, lastly, the waters underneath burst in, this huge

metropolis was soon overthrown. At this day all those parts which were

built upon low ground are marshes and swamps. Those houses that were

upon high ground were, of course, like the other towns, ransacked of all

they contained by the remnant that was left; the iron, too, was

extracted. Trees growing up by them in time cracked the walls, and they

fell in. Trees and bushes covered them; ivy and nettles concealed the

crumbling masses of brick.



The same was the case with the lesser cities and towns whose sites are

known in the woods. For though many of our present towns bear the

ancient names, they do not stand upon the ancient sites, but are two or

three, and sometimes ten miles distant. The founders carried with them

the name of their original residence.



Thus the low-lying parts of the mighty city of London became swamps, and

the higher grounds were clad with bushes. The very largest of the

buildings fell in, and there was nothing visible but trees and hawthorns

on the upper lands, and willows, flags, reeds, and rushes on the lower.

These crumbling ruins still more choked the stream, and almost, if not

quite, turned it back. If any water ooze past, it is not perceptible,

and there is no channel through to the salt ocean. It is a vast stagnant

swamp, which no man dare enter, since death would be his inevitable

fate.



There exhales from this oozy mass so fatal a vapour that no animal can

endure it. The black water bears a greenish-brown floating scum, which

for ever bubbles up from the putrid mud of the bottom. When the wind

collects the miasma, and, as it were, presses it together, it becomes

visible as a low cloud which hangs over the place. The cloud does not

advance beyond the limit of the marsh, seeming to stay there by some

constant attraction; and well it is for us that it does not, since at

such times when the vapour is thickest, the very wildfowl leave the

reeds, and fly from the poison. There are no fishes, neither can eels

exist in the mud, nor even newts. It is dead.



The flags and reeds are coated with slime and noisome to the touch;

there is one place where even these do not grow, and where there is

nothing but an oily liquid, green and rank. It is plain there are no

fishes in the water, for herons do not go thither, nor the kingfishers,

not one of which approaches the spot. They say the sun is sometimes

hidden by the vapour when it is thickest, but I do not see how any can

tell this, since they could not enter the cloud, as to breathe it when

collected by the wind is immediately fatal. For all the rottenness of a

thousand years and of many hundred millions of human beings is there

festering under the stagnant water, which has sunk down into and

penetrated the earth, and floated up to the surface the contents of the

buried cloacae.



Many scores of men have, I fear, perished in the attempt to enter this

fearful place, carried on by their desire of gain. For it can scarcely

be disputed that untold treasures lie hidden therein, but guarded by

terrors greater than fiery serpents. These have usually made their

endeavours to enter in severe and continued frost, or in the height of a

drought. Frost diminishes the power of the vapour, and the marshes can

then, too, be partially traversed, for there is no channel for a boat.

But the moment anything be moved, whether it be a bush, or a willow,

even a flag, if the ice be broken, the pestilence rises yet stronger.

Besides which, there are portions which never freeze, and which may be

approached unawares, or a turn of the wind may drift the gas towards the

explorer.



In the midst of summer, after long heat, the vapour rises, and is in a

degree dissipated into the sky, and then by following devious ways an

entrance may be effected, but always at the cost of illness. If the

explorer be unable to quit the spot before night, whether in summer or

winter, his death is certain. In the earlier times some bold and

adventurous men did indeed succeed in getting a few jewels, but since

then the marsh has become more dangerous, and its pestilent character,

indeed, increases year by year, as the stagnant water penetrates deeper.

So that now for very many years no such attempts have been made.



The extent of these foul swamps is not known with certainty, but it is

generally believed that they are, at the widest, twenty miles across,

and that they reach in a winding line for nearly forty. But the outside

parts are much less fatal; it is only the interior which is avoided.



Towards the Lake the sand thrown up by the waves has long since formed a

partial barrier between the sweet water and the stagnant, rising up to

within a few feet of the surface. This barrier is overgrown with flags

and reeds, where it is shallow. Here it is possible to sail along the

sweet water within an arrow-shot of the swamp. Nor, indeed, would the

stagnant mingle with the sweet, as is evident at other parts of the

swamp, where streams flow side by side with the dark or reddish water;

and there are pools, upon one side of which the deer drink, while the

other is not frequented even by rats.



The common people aver that demons reside in these swamps; and, indeed,

at night fiery shapes are seen, which, to the ignorant, are sufficient

confirmation of such tales. The vapour, where it is most dense, takes

fire, like the blue flame of spirits, and these flaming clouds float to

and fro, and yet do not burn the reeds. The superstitious trace in them

the forms of demons and winged fiery serpents, and say that white

spectres haunt the margin of the marsh after dusk. In a lesser degree,

the same thing has taken place with other ancient cities. It is true

that there are not always swamps, but the sites are uninhabitable

because of the emanations from the ruins. Therefore they are avoided.

Even the spot where a single house has been known to have existed, is

avoided by the hunters in the woods.



They say when they are stricken with ague or fever, that they must have

unwittingly slept on the site of an ancient habitation. Nor can the

ground be cultivated near the ancient towns, because it causes fever;

and thus it is that, as I have already stated, the present places of the

same name are often miles distant from the former locality. No sooner

does the plough or the spade turn up an ancient site than those who work

there are attacked with illness. And thus the cities of the old world,

and their houses and habitations, are deserted and lost in the forest.

If the hunters, about to pitch their camp for the night, should stumble

on so much as a crumbling brick or a fragment of hewn stone, they at

once remove at least a bowshot away.



The eastward flow of the Thames being at first checked, and finally

almost or quite stopped by the formation of these banks, the water

turned backwards as it were, and began to cover hitherto dry land. And

this, with the other lesser rivers and brooks that no longer had any

ultimate outlet, accounts for the Lake, so far as this side of the

country is concerned.



At the western extremity the waters also contract between the steep

cliffs called the Red Rocks, near to which once existed the city of

Bristol. Now the Welsh say, and the tradition of those who dwell in that

part of the country bears them out, that in the time of the old world

the River Severn flowed past the same spot, but not between these

cliffs. The great river Severn coming down from the north, with England

on one bank and Wales upon the other, entered the sea, widening out as

it did so. Just before it reached the sea, another lesser river, called

the Avon, the upper part of which is still there, joined it passing

through this cleft in the rocks.



But when the days of the old world ended in the twilight of the

ancients, as the salt ocean fell back and its level became lower, vast

sandbanks were disclosed, which presently extended across the most part

of the Severn river. Others, indeed, think that the salt ocean did not

sink, but that the land instead was lifted higher. Then they say that

the waves threw up an immense quantity of shingle and sand, and that

thus these banks were formed. All that we know with certainty, however,

is, that across the estuary of the Severn there rose a broad barrier of

beach, which grew wider with the years, and still increases westwards.

It is as if the ocean churned up its floor and cast it forth upon the

strand.



Now when the Severn was thus stayed yet more effectually than the

Thames, in the first place it also flowed backwards as it were, till its

overflow mingled with the reflux of the Thames. Thus the inland sea of

fresh water was formed; though Silvester hints (what is most improbable)

that the level of the land sank and formed a basin. After a time, when

the waters had risen high enough, since all water must have an outlet

somewhere, the Lake, passing over the green country behind the Red

Rocks, came pouring through the channel of the Avon.



Then, farther down, it rose over the banks which were lowest there, and

thus found its way over a dam into the sea. Now when the tide of the

ocean is at its ebb, the waters of the Lake rush over these banks with

so furious a current that no vessel can either go down or come up. If

they attempted to go down, they would be swamped by the meeting of the

waves; if they attempted to come up, the strongest gale that blows could

not force them against the stream. As the tide gradually returns,

however, the level of the ocean rises to the level of the Lake, the

outward flow of water ceases, and there is even a partial inward flow of

the tide which, at its highest, reaches to the Red Rocks. At this state

of the tide, which happens twice in a day and night, vessels can enter

or go forth.



The Irish ships, of which I have spoken, thus come into the Lake,

waiting outside the bar till the tide lifts them over. The Irish ships,

being built to traverse the ocean from their country, are large and

stout and well manned, carrying from thirty to fifty men. The Welsh

ships, which come down from that inlet of the Lake which follows the

ancient course of the Severn, are much smaller and lighter, as not being

required to withstand the heavy seas. They carry but fifteen or twenty

men each, but then they are more numerous. The Irish ships, on account

of their size and draught, in sailing about the sweet waters, cannot

always haul on shore at night, nor follow the course of the ships of

burden between the fringe of islands and the strand.



They have often to stay in the outer and deeper waters; but the Welsh

boats come in easily at all parts of the coast, so that no place is safe

against them. The Welsh have ever been most jealous of the Severn, and

will on no account permit so much as a canoe to enter it. So that

whether it be a narrow creek, or whether there be wide reaches, or what

the shores may be like, we are ignorant. And this is all that is with

certainty known concerning the origin of the inland sea of sweet water,

excluding all that superstition and speculation have advanced, and

setting down nothing but ascertained facts.



A beautiful sea it is, clear as crystal, exquisite to drink, abounding

with fishes of every kind, and adorned with green islands. There is

nothing more lovely in the world than when, upon a calm evening, the sun

goes down across the level and gleaming water, where it is so wide that

the eye can but just distinguish a low and dark cloud, as it were,

resting upon the horizon, or perhaps, looking lengthways, cannot

distinguish any ending to the expanse. Sometimes it is blue, reflecting

the noonday sky; sometimes white from the clouds; again green and dark

as the wind rises and the waves roll.



Storms, indeed, come up with extraordinary swiftness, for which reason

the ships, whenever possible, follow the trade route, as it is called,

behind the islands, which shelter them like a protecting reef. They drop

equally quickly, and thus it is not uncommon for the morning to be calm,

the midday raging in waves dashing resistlessly upon the beach, and the

evening still again. The Irish, who are accustomed to the salt ocean,

say, in the suddenness of its storms and the shifting winds, it is more

dangerous than the sea itself. But then there are almost always islands,

behind which a vessel can be sheltered.



Beneath the surface of the Lake there must be concealed very many

ancient towns and cities, of which the names are lost. Sometimes the

anchors bring up even now fragments of rusty iron and old metal, or

black beams of timber. It is said, and with probability, that when the

remnant of the ancients found the water gradually encroaching (for it

rose very slowly), as they were driven back year by year, they

considered that in time they would be all swept away and drowned. But

after extending to its present limits the Lake rose no farther, not even

in the wettest seasons, but always remains the same. From the position

of certain quays we know that it has thus remained for the last hundred

years at least.



Never, as I observed before, was there so beautiful an expanse of water.

How much must we sorrow that it has so often proved only the easiest

mode of bringing the miseries of war to the doors of the unoffending!

Yet men are never weary of sailing to and fro upon it, and most of the

cities of the present time are upon its shore. And in the evening we

walk by the beach, and from the rising grounds look over the waters, as

if to gaze upon their loveliness were reward to us for the labour of the

day.



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